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by 'Laurent'


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Bodyboarding in general

Bodyboarding like skating/ surfing is all about maneuvers, it can be a 360, a 360 Reverse or whatever ; one of the fun things about bodyboarding is getting air....launching air (with combination if possible) and this is where bodyboarding has been successfully headed in the recent years....mastering those maneuvers requires time and practice....trying a 360 air reverse on a beach break is for sure less harmful than on a reef break.

How to choose a Bodyboard

Bodyboarding is really easy to start, a board suited to your weight and height (see chart under), a good pair of fins (flippers) and a leash will have you on the way to catching your first wave, pulling a 360 even on the flat section is another story....JL Designs in the USA specialise in bodyboards made to order and can make a board to suit you.

Bodyboard
Your weight
Your height
36"-38"
65-85 lbs
4' - 5'
39"
85-115 lbs
4'6" - 5'2"
40"
110-130 lbs
5'3"- 5'6"
41"-41.75"
125-170 lbs
5'7" - 5'9"
42"
145-180 lbs
5'9"-6'0"
42.5"
160-190 lbs
5'10"-6'2"
43"
170-210 lbs
6'1"-6'3"
44"
180-270 lbs
6'2"-6'4"
45"
195-255lbs
6'3" - 6'6"
46"
200lbs +
6'4" +

Length- Your board, when standing on it's tail should come up to roughly within 1 inch either side of your belly button.

Width- You should be able to hold the board under your arm and against your side without much slack between your armpit and the rail.

Nose and tail width, and template- if you're a beginner, the tail design doesn't really matter much. but if you're more into the sport, bat tails are the choice of most prone-only riders, and crescents are the choice of most drop knee-only riders. If you are both, then consider what your ratio of prone to drop knee is, and go with the tail design that covers how you ride more (prone or drop knee). On templates, most prone riders like a board with the wide point closer to the nose, and most drop knee riders like it further back.

Rails- Most boards have a 60/40 rail configuration that means that 60% of the rail is on the bottom side and 40% is on top, this is better for prone riding and makes tricks easier to pull off . Some boards have a 50/50 rail which sticks better to the curl , it is also more stable ( good for Drop Knee riding) but less forgiving for the 360 and reverse tricks.

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Bodyboard Construction and parts

Deck- The top of the board where you lay.

Slick bottom- The bottom of the board that has a smooth or slick material such as Surlyn or HDPE.

Nose- The front of the board where you hold on.

Rail- The side of the board. The rail of a board is expressed as a ratio such as 50/50 or 60/40, etc. The theory is that a 50/50 rail is faster and more stable but a 60/40 offers more control and makes some maneuvers easier to do. Most boards use 60/40.

Tail- The back end of the board.

Channels- Gouged-out areas on the bottom that reduce contact with water and so increase speed , it is also acting as "small skegs" improving control.
Stringer- It's a straight rod inserted into the board to maintain the stiffness of the board.

Mesh- A wire-like plastic material inserted into the core of a board to enhance projection and durability. This is only used by a couple manufacturers as an alternative to stringers ( Example : Morey Mach 7 X which was an enhanced version of the original Mach 7-7 ; X means Mesh )

Template- This term refers to the overall shape

Rocker- the rocker refers to how flat a board is. Normally, the nose curve is going to keep the nose off the sea level, but the tail should be flat and the board shouldn't "rock" more than just a little bit. Too much rocker will decrease the speed.

the rocker of a board will change mainly due to the difference of material used between deck , core and bottom. It is unfortunately a normal process and most boards will end up with a reverse rocker causing the nose to dive into the curl of a wave ( especially while Drop Knee riding ) . To delay this , always keep your board in a cool place ( heat will accelerate this process ) and store your board on the nose , not the tail.

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Tails : 2 main types

Bodyboard bat tail

Bat Tail- Looks like the wingspan of a bat. There are points at either end of the tail, with some form of rounded or pointed area in the center .Bat tails provide lots of maneuverability. Most prone riders preferred bat tails as it is very efficient for doing maneuvers in the critical part of the wave.

Bodyboard cresent tail

Crescent Tail- The type of tail has square corners on either side of the tail, and a "U" shape connecting them. Crescent tails are mainly used by drop knee riders and prone riders into tube riding. It provides maximum stability but doesn't release quite as easily as a bat tail if you like to execute a 360.


Cores, Foam Types and Bottom Skins

Crosslink- A type of foam characterized by it's denser, more compact feel, and unwillingness to absorb water. Very durable deck and rail foam material also named Green Cell or Dura Deck

Polypropylene- Polypro is light, springy, and strong. There are two types : Extruded polypro is made from strands of polypropylene and offers very good projection and durability.Beaded polypro is extremely lightweight, durable, water-resistant, but also very expensive.

Dow or Polyethylene- Used since the 70's, it's still the standard foam. It's compact ( there are different densities ), and has excellent projection and performance, but it does not last long , compared to polypro, unless combined with mesh or stringer, it is also a bit heavier than Polypro. It's used on the deck and rails of most bodyboards as well.

Surlyn- it is the material used in most bottoms of bodyboard ( golf balls are also using it ) ; it's slick and durable, has great speed and projection.

HDPE - High Density Polyethylene looks very similar to Surlyn, but it's not as flexible.

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How to insert a leash plug

You can use anything that is strong and at least 4 inches (10cms) long , a screwdriver is best, heat it for a minute or two then start to perforate the board with the heated screwdriver, from the bottom through to the deck.

Most riders will put the leash about 8 inches (20cms) down from the nose of the board in the center, but some will put it about 6 inches (15cms) in from either side depending on whether they are regular or goofy foot.

Note : If your board has a stringer, do not install the leash in the center or you will hit the stringer, just install it about 1 inch (2.5 cms ) either side . With double stringer boards, the stringers are usually placed halfway between the center and the rail.

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Wax - Is it necessary to wax a bodyboard?

Surfers wax their boards to improve their grip , it is the same for bodyboarders.

Do not wax the entire deck of your board as you need to be able to move your body depending on the manouvres you want to execute , for a 360 your body has to be in the middle of the board whereas while prone riding your hips have to be in contact with the tail of your board.

Wax the nose of your board ( last 1/3 from the top ) including the rails , then same thing for the tail and finally the rails in the middle of the board. Drop Knee Riders will wax exactly the same way except that they will just wax half depending whether they are regular or goofy .

Bodyboarding how to wax
Wax for drop knee riding
Bodyboarding how to wax
Wax for prone riding

How to remove wax

Pour hot water on your board and the wax should melt off. Another option will be to use a hair dryer wiping the wax off with a wax comb while it's still melted and hot.

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Wrist or biceps leash ?


WRIST

Positive- It's comfortable and easier to tie/untie.
Negative- During some tricks ( ARS ), the leash may get rolled around your arm

BICEP
Positive- The main concept is to keep the leash out when paddling as it is tied just above the elbow on your upper arm
Negative- It may hurt while flexing those huge bicep muscles you have.
80% of top bodyboarders today are using the bicep leash

 

What about Swimfins ?

Bodyboarding without swimfins is almost impossible! Fins will help in all aspects of bodyboarding- paddling out, catching waves, steering and controlling the board as they are acting as skegs. After the board itself, swimfins are the most important accessories in bodyboarding.

Advice for all who rent bodyboards on Phuket beaches, include fins in the rental and your customers will definitely come back the next day for a new session ; there's nothing more frustrating than renting a bodyboard and not being able to catch a wave….

The most popular fins for bodyboarding on the market are Churchill fins.

churchill fins
Churchill Fins

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Fins/skegs on a bodyboard

Using skegs on the bottom of your board will help not sliding out (which is useful when you start drop knee riding) , other than that it is a useless accessory as it goes in total contradiction with the essence of bodyboarding (spinning) ; bodyboarders have not used them since the beginning of 80's.

Body board care tips


SUN DAMAGE
- Do not leave your board in direct sunlight. It will rocker out (loose it's concave shape) and bubble your board! Try to choose a board with a white bottom and avoid black decks, which attract the heat.

Rinse your board with freshwater as soon as possible after a session!

Salt and Sun are the worst enemies of your board. Always keep your boogie board in a bag to protect it from the elements and accidental damage when moving it from surf to surf.

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How to catch waves on a bodyboard

Paddling out

1. Wax your board

2. Lay down on the board so that your hips are in contact with the tail of the board.

3. Place your hands on the top corners of the board.

4. Keep your elbows on the board. It is almost impossible to control your board if your elbows are dragging in the water.

6. Arch your back and keep your head up.

7 Make sure to keep your fins underwater, beginners have a bad habit of slapping the surface with their fins which is absolutely unefficient

First wave !

how to ride a Bodyboard

1. Try to pick a wave that's not too big and that has a clean face. You need to try to catch it just before it breaks and turns to whitewater.

2. As the wave approaches, start to kick the water with your fins underwater . Once you've chosen to go right or left, it's time to get the right position on the board.

3. If you have chosen to go on the right, move your body to the inside (right) edge of the board and apply pressure with your right hip to the back edge. Put your right hand to the top right corner with your right elbow pressing along the right edge of the board acting as both a pivot and the main point of control .

Your left hand should be around 1/3 down the outside (left) edge of your board with your left arm slightly bent and the elbow in air. Your right hand and elbow are controlling your rail and keeping it in the wave and your left hand and arm are controlling your direction. If you go left on the wave, just reverse all the body, hand and arm positions.


4. To gain speed, crucial for any maneuver, simply slide forward on the board, but not too far or you'll lose your hip pressure on that inside edge and start sliding out and losing control . In the meantime, lift off the water the feet on the outside of the wave to reduce contact , on a right hander wave, lift off your left foot and your right foot on a left hander

 

Once you are really surfing you might want to try some turns and maneuvres

Check this page from time to time for further updates

Check here for other learn to surf tips

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