Start paddling as soon as you break the surface of
the water. Not doing this, on bigger waves, could result in you and your board
being sucked back into the breaking wave, not fun as entering a breaking wave
from the back like this gives you a real pounding!!
We've all been sucked backward over the falls before
and it makes you all the more determined for it to not happen again!
Always Duck Dive before the wave reaches you so you
have time to go under. A common mistake is to leave it too late
and the whitewater will catch you and pull you back towards
the beach.
Remember learning to duck dive takes a lot of practice
to get it right. You should be able to duck dive in flat water once you get the
hang of it - just like ducks do!!
The Turtle Roll
Duck diving a 7 feet or longer surfboard becomes
quite difficult especially if the surfboard has a wide nose like a longboard.
A big surfboard floats very well and is difficult to push under the water. If
you can't go deep enough duck diving to get under the wave the wave will push
you back towards the shore.
In this case, don't be a duck......
be a turtle dude!!!
Here's what you do...
-
As the wave approaches hold the
rails of the surfboard, around where you would put your hands
to stand up, or 1/4 to 1/3 of the way from the nose of the
board, and lean to one side causing you and the surfboard
to go upside down.
-
You are now under the water,
under your surfboard. Best for your body to be in an upright
position at this stage. That is at 90 degree angle to your
board, not parallel, this will help to create resistance against
the pull of the wave.
-
For small waves, hold your surfboard
at least 2-3 feet from the nose on each rail and pull the
nose of the board under the water. This will cause the wave
to pass over the surfboard without catching it and pulling
it back.
With big waves a lot of force is required to pull the board
far enough under the water and to counter the force of the
wave, so the wave passes over.
-
Be careful not to hlod the board
to far back as it can make it easier for the wave to get under
the board and wrentch it out of your hands.
-
Once the wave has passed, flip
the board back over, and get back on.
