Catching Your First Surfing
Waves - Whitewater Waves
Starting off riding the whitewater
is how we all learnt and it gives you a good feel for how
your surfboard glides on the water. Experienced surfers still
do this when they are going back to the shore.
Getting in Position
Grab your board, and head out into the water until it's just
above your waist. Hopefully you'll still be where the whitewater
is rolling in and not outside the breaker line.
Let some whitewater roll by, getting a feel for the rhythm
and power of the waves.
Always keep your surfboard at your
side with the nose pointing towards the oncoming waves. Never
let your surfboard get between you and the waves, as the whitewater
waves still have a lot of power and can flick your surfboard
into your face before you know it!
Wait for what looks like a pretty solid chunk of whitewater,
and turn around, facing the shoreline. Face the shore and
hold your board by the rails, at your side. As the wave comes
jump/lay on your surfboard while pushing forward to give you
If you don't push forward the wave
will overtake you and many times will roll you off the surfboard.
Stay in control of the board! Smile
and let the wave take you to the shore.
Remember to jump off before you hit
the sand otherwise it may break the fins.
You will probably fall off the first
few times as the wave hits you, but you'll get the hang of
it after a few tries.
The next step is to actually paddle the surfboard before the
wave reaches you. Get on your board before the whitewater
reaches you and start to paddle towards the shore. As the
wave takes you and you feel yourself surge forward, stop paddling
and grab the rails of the surfboard with your hands. Try and
get a good feel for the surfboard gliding across the water.
Also try leaning from side to side
directing the surfboard to where you want to go, this will
help you to avoid obstacles in the water or other surfers
Catch a whitewater wave the same as before, except this time
as you feel the wave pushing you along, put your hands on
the deck of the board and do a push-up and 'pop' your feet
underneath you. Do not grab the rails as this will put you
off balance and slow down the surfboard. You could also slip
making you do a face plant on your surfboard, good way to
get a fat lip!
Immediately afterwards, take your hands
off the surfboard and stand in a stable crouch.
It's right about at this point that
you will begin to fall. Try not to land on anyone and anything,
particularly your board. Try and fall backwards away from
the surfboard, falling backwards also helps you to fall shallow
so you don't hit the bottom.
Hey, you're surfing! Smile, and go
do it again.
to fall off safely
Standing up smoothly and correctly
on a moving surfboard, takes practice and is not as easy as
it looks. Always start by practicing this in the whitewater,
trying this on unbroken waves, unless you are with someone
experienced, can cause injuries and often a broken surfboard.
Naturally, most surf boarders do not
surf in the whitewater. They like to turn and do maneuvers
on the open wave face. You'll get out there too, once you
can stand up in the whitewater reliably.
Starting out in the whitewater, helps
you practice standing up on a fast-moving surfboard without
having to worry about where the wave is breaking, other surfers,
pearling/nose diving, going over the falls, or any other hazards.
It's how I learned! And 99.99% of all
surfers learnt this way too!!