One thing every surfer must know about is rip currents. Every year many people drown because they don't understand the force and danger of rip currents. Being a surfer you will, for sure, be called upon to help swimmers in distress who have be swept out by a rip current.
What is a Rip Current?
A rip current is when waves come into the beach they bring a lot of water with them. This water needs to escape back out into the ocean. The water usually goes along the beach to either end and then goes in a channel out the back or in the middle of the beach through a break in a sandbar.
You can usually tell a rip current
by no waves breaking; choppy water even though the rest of
the sea is calm; waves breaking either side; a line of seaweed
or other moving out to sea; a difference in water colour;
lack of foam sitting on top of the water.
Facts about rip currents
- Rip current speeds vary. Average speeds
are 1-2 feet per second, but they have been measured as
fast as 8 feet per second......faster than an Olympic
- Rip currents can be very narrow or more
than 50 yards wide.
- Sometimes rip currents end just beyond
the line of breaking waves; however, they may continue
to pull hundreds of yards offshore.
- Rip currents do not pull people under
the water, they pull people away from shore.
Why are Rip Currents Dangerous?
Rip currents are dangerous because they can move very fast out to sea. Any swimmers caught in the current can easily be taken out past the breaking waves or further. Rip Currents can pull even the strongest swimmer out to sea.
They are moving out to sea all the time, but when the tide is changing from high tide to low tide this is when they can be at their strongest.
picture from NOAA
Now for the good news...YES! rip currents are the surfer's friend! When you are sitting watching the waves before you paddle out, look for the rip currents. Usually good waves can be breaking either side as well. Paddle out through the rip current and then accross to the waves. Sometimes you can get out to the line-up without getting your hair wet.....
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