Rip Currents
One thing every surfer must know about is rip currents.
Every year many people drown because they don't understand the force and danger
of rip currents. Being a surfer you will, for sure, be called upon to help swimmers
in distress who have be swept out by a rip current.
What is a Rip Current?
A rip current
is when waves come into the beach they bring a lot of water with them. This water
needs to escape back out into the ocean. The water usually goes along the beach
to either end and then goes in a channel out the back or in the middle of the
beach through a break in a sandbar.
You can usually tell a rip current by no waves breaking;
choppy water even though the rest of the sea is calm; waves breaking either side;
a line of seaweed or other moving out to sea; a difference in water colour.
Facts about rip currents
- Rip current speeds vary. Average speeds are 1-2 feet
per second, but they have been measured as fast as 8 feet per second......faster
than an Olympic swimmer!
- Rip currents can be very narrow or more than 50 yards
wide.
- Sometimes rip currents end just beyond the line of
breaking waves; however, they may continue to pull hundreds of yards
offshore.
- Rip currents do not pull people under the water,
they pull people away from shore.
Why are Rip Currents Dangerous?
Rip currents are dangerous because they can move
very fast out to sea. Any swimmers caught in the current can easily be taken out
past the breaking waves or further. Rip Currents can pull even the strongest swimmer
out to sea.
They are moving out to sea all the time, but when
the tide is changing from high tide to low tide this is when they can be at their
strongest.
picture from NOAA
Surfer's Friend?
Now for the good news...YES! rip currents are
the surfer's friend! When you are sitting watching the waves before you paddle
out, look for the rip currents. Usually good waves can be breaking either side
as well. Paddle out through the rip current and then accross to the waves. Sometimes
you can get out to the line-up without getting your hair wet.....
Check our forum for more on understanding
tide charts
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