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(This learn to surf page is from Santa Barbara Surfing, an open content site. Created by Tim Maddux, courtesy of UCSB, CoE, ME, and CS. (Some links, text and pictures have been added and updated to give relevence to surfing in Thailand)
Be sure to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of ettiquette for the sport.
Phuket is the beginners paradise!
Learning to surf in Phuket is fun!
 Sister Surfer : A Woman's Guide to Surfing with Bliss and Courage  “SISTER SURFER does a great job of both explaining how to surf and breaking down the barriers that prevent women from experiencing the sport. A great read that will surely empower and motivate surfers of every level and ability.” More learn to surf books |
Your First Surfboard
When you learn to surf there are many different
types of surfboards to choose from, and for a beginner the features
and characteristics can seem confusing. The best surfboard for a beginner
is a funboard or an egg, which is a fairly wide and thick board from
7' to 8' in length, typically having a blunt or rounded nose. A good
rule of thumb is to get something 14" longer than you are tall,
and at least 20" wide.
When you are more experienced a good surfboard size rule of thumb is
the surf board should be 6 inches taller then you. Of course your wieght
will influence the size of your surfboar and varying the length by 1-2
inches and increasing the thickness will compensate for a full bodied
surfer.
A longboard, a round-nosed board of 9' or more length, is too difficult
to paddle and control for most beginners, while a shortboard is typically
too thin, narrow, and short, making it unstable and difficult to paddle.
Generally if you are around 120lb 6'10", 140lb 7'2", 170lb
7'6" and above.
Start off by borrowing your friends board or rent a board. If you must
buy one, look for a used board when first starting out. Most surf shops
should have some sort of used board selection. Look in newspapers for
boards for sale. Be sure to look the board over before you buy:
Make sure there aren't any dings,
or holes in the board. If there are, you will need to repair them.
Test the deck for soft, bubbly, delamination, which weakens the board
and allows it to take on water.
Make sure the fins are intact and that there is a plug on the deck for
a leash.
Again, look for something with general characteristics of being wide,
thick, and long as opposed to narrow, short, and thin. The board need
not be totally pristine; once you really get into surfing you'll likely
want to upgrade to something different.
For a first new surfboard NSP
surf boards are probably the way to go.
Another choice might be Bic
surfboards the banner below will help you choose the right Bic surfboard
for you, don't forget to order your board here.
NEW
Far and away the single most important thing to look for when purchasing a new wetsuit is how it fits. Shop around as much as you can. Make sure the suit has a comfortable feel. All suits will be tight by design but it shouldn't be totally restrictive of motion. Test range of motion by raising your arms overhead and arching your back, then bending and touching your toes. Do some squats. Pay attention to the suit's response, if you're getting pinched by the neoprene or if it is going taut then you'll need to try a different suit.
Ladies will find additional problems in that most wetsuits are cut for men. There are womens' suits out there, ask your shop if they carry any. Don't just order one right off the bat without getting a chance to try it on. If you're going with a swimsuit, look to get a 1-piece suit or a pair of ladies' trunks.
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It's possible to get a good price on a used wetsuit as well. Check to see how intact the seams are and look in high-wear areas (underarms, hindquarters) for neoprene damage. As neoprene ages it stiffens and shrinks. Used wetsuits are thus a good idea for the beginner who isn't sure about sticking with the sport.
In warmer climates you'll need a rash
vest to stop the wax from rubbing the skin on your stomach off, and
to stop sun-burn. It can be really painful! Most good surf shops have
rash vests for sale. Make sure
it is tight fitting so it doesn't creep up when you are in the surf.
Surfboard Leashes
The leash is a cord of polyurethane that straps around the ankle of
a surfer and is attached to the surfboard. Attach it to your back
leg. Never tug on the leash when your board is being held under as
the board can come snapping back at you. Practice removing it quickly
in case it gets
caught on a rock or pier piling. Treat your surfboard as if it was
not attached, doing conservative exits and hanging onto it at all
times.
How to attach a leash to your surfboard
Firstly, at the tail end of your board there
is a small plastic well with a steel or plastic bar going from one
side to the other. This is called a 'plug'. All surfboards these days
have a plug already installed. Secondly, your leash has a loop of
strong cord coming out of the rail saver. On some leashes this cord
is fixed and cannot be removed, on others you can undo the velcro
bound rail saver and detach the loop of cord.
1. Slide one end
of the loop under the small bar in the plug.
2. Pass the
other end of the cord through itself to form a slip knot around the
bar.
3. It is then
just a matter of re-attaching the rail saver to the cord. Making sure
you push the knot of the cord so it is inside the railsaver.
3a. With leashes
with a fixed rope cord and rail saver, the whole legrope needs to
go through the loop of cord to form a slip knot.
How to put your
leash on your leg
Always apply your leash to your back foot. That is if you are a natural
footer (left foot forward) apply it to your right foot. For goofy
footers to your left foot. Wrap the ankle strap firmly around your
ankle so the leash doesn't turn around and make sure the leash trails
off from the back. When walking with your board, with your leash on,
hold the middle of your leash under one finger of the hand holding
your board. This saves you tripping on your leash and looking uncool
to your friends.
Surf Wax / Deck
Grips
Something to keep your feet on the board once you
learn to stand up.
Surfboard Wax
Wax goes on the deck (top) of the board. Usually
comes in two coats, a base coat which goes directly onto the deck
in a thin layer and is quite hard, and then a sticky coat over that
which beads up to provide traction. Use long, quick strokes with,
light pressure to get a nice bead. Wax combs can be purchased to rough-up
wax as it gets worn slick and to strip wax for a fresh coat. There's
no need to buy any custom wax remover from a surf shop, just leave
the board in the sun for 5 minutes and strip with a wax comb or any
piece of hard, straight plastic.
 SWD 6 & 8 foot surf leashes Double swivel stand-off design with rail saver & key pocket in clear or black. Saltwater Dreaming Surf Shop |
 Gecko Glue Surf Wax |
Deck Grips
These are expensive traction pads that provide
some extra grip as well as padding for the deck of the board. They can
limit the movement of the feet and can result in discomfort to the chest
and stomach while paddling.
Tail patches are grip specially designed for the rear of the board, and provide good traction for the rear foot needed in most turns on a shortboard. Tail patches should be placed centered over the rear fins. For the rest of the board, the deck grip can go anywhere that seems appropriate. Try popping up from a prone position to standing with legs slightly apart next to the board. Place the grip so your front foot is centered.
The most common set-up is to use only a tail patch and use wax for the rest of the board. I would suggest that you try this combination especially when learning to surf. The tail patch becoming a reference point to know if your back foot is in the correct position and the wax will allow you the freedom of re-adjusting your front foot position.
click the pic
Where
to learn to surf
Ask around for good beginner surf breaks when
you're shopping around for the equipment mentioned above. Most shop
proprietors will be happy to assist, especially if you're making a purchase.
Phuket has become known as a place with gentle and easy waves, which
are ideal for learning to surf. Click
here to inquire about learning to surf in Phuket
To find the right break for you to learn on.The Surfing
Phuket beaches pages on this web site have detailed information
on the surf conditions in Phuket. For other locations to go surfing
in Thailand. Websites like Global
surfers also have plenty of information for surfing destinations
all over the world. You could also check out some of the beach cams
in your area to see if the waves are suitable for beginners.
In general, a beginner wants to find a break with waves that look crumbly and slow. Try to find small waves and a sandy beach; you'll be walking around a lot. Don't paddle into a crowded break; you'll likely be a hazard. Don't surf alone; there will be nobody to help if you're in trouble. Surf where there are people present but not right on top of them where you'll be in the way.
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Pre-Surf
Preparation
It's always a bad idea to just paddle out
into the waves without first getting a good idea of what the conditions
are like. In December, 1985, a young surfer did just that at The Farm
in Australia, paddling out into what he thought was head-high surf when
it was twice that size and getting bigger, an hour of being thrashed
around paddling aimlessly into oncoming walls of whitewater the surfer
was exhausted and lay on the beach for another hour just getting his
breath back.
Take some time to watch the waves and stretch. Focus on your neck, shoulders,
triceps, back, and legs. Swing your arms and get your pulse going. Get
into a calm state of mind.
Watch the waves for at least twice as many minutes as the waves are
high on the face in feet. On a waist high day, that means watching for
about 5 or 6 minutes. On a double-overhead day, that means watching
for about 20 minutes. Get a feel for where everyone is sitting in the
water, where the waves are breaking, and where they're not breaking.
Look for rip currents, rocks and hazards. Watch a few larger set waves
roll through. Think about where you can paddle out into the surf, and
where you can swim in if you get into trouble.
Put some sunscreen on your face and some wax
on your board. Before attaching your leash for the first time, you'll
need to figure out which leg is your back leg. Here are some tests:
The linoleum slide test -- wear socks
and run and slide across the kitchen floor. Which foot is first? Plant
it front on your board.
The push test -- have someone push you (gently) from behind.
Which foot goes forward. That is your front foot.
The stair test -- which foot leads on stairs, down? Front foot.
Bike test -- When you ride a bike and coast, which foot leads
on fast downhills? Front foot on board.
The best way to figure this out is to try riding a skateboard; your
back leg while skateboarding is the same as while surfing.
Paddling
When getting into the water, walk out through
the waves crumbling into the shoreline as far as possible. Center yourself
on the board, keep your legs straight behind you, back arched with your
chest slightly off the deck, with the board nose, level, or just above
the water surface.
Your paddle stroke should be essentially like a crawl swimming stroke. Keep your fingers spread and use deep strokes. Get a feel for paddling around on the surfboard and the balance of it.
Your
First Waves
By now you have found a good place to surf
and have gotten used to paddling around on the board without falling
off.
Grab your board, and head out into the water until it's up to your chest
or so. Hopefully you'll still be where the whitewater is rolling in
and not outside the breaker line.
Let some whitewater roll by, getting a feel for the rhythm of the waves.
Wait for what looks like a pretty solid chunk of whitewater, and turn
around, facing the shoreline. Get on your board and start to paddle
in.
When the whitewater reaches you, it will surge you forward. Stay in
control of the board!
As you feel yourself surge forward, stop paddling and grab the rails
of the surfboard with your hands.
Do a push-up and quickly 'pop' your feet underneath you. Do not kneel;
go straight to your feet. Both feet need to be under you at the same
time, one in front of the other, with the toes pointing perpendicular
to the centerline of the board.
At about this point you'll need to know whether you want to be a regular-foot
or a goofyfoot.
Immediately afterwards, let go of the rails and stand in a stable crouch.
It's right about at this point that you will
begin to fall. Try not to land on anyone and anything, particularly
your board. Fall shallow so you don't hit the bottom.
Hey, you're surfing! Smile, and go do it again.
Naturally, most surfers do not surf in the whitewater. They like to
turn and do maneuvers on the open face. You'll get out there too, once
you can stand up in the whitewater reliably. This helps you practice
standing up on a fast-moving surfboard without having to worry about
where the wave is breaking, other surfers, pearling, going over the
falls, or any other hazards. It's how I learned!
How
to Duck Dive
Duck diving correctly is an essential techniquie
for surfing. It allows you to get through the waves with the least amount
of energy and also gets you out the back of the waves quickly.
Learning to duck dive takes a lot of practice it is not as easy as it looks. If you don't duck dive correctly the wave will push you back and you will probably lose your board. The worst scenario, on bigger waves, is that the wave will pick you up and suck you over the falls inside the wave! This is not a pleasant experience! But we've all been there!
Here is how to
do it
1. As the wave approaches put your hands on the rails just in
front of you and push the nose of the board under the water.
2. Straighteh your arms out, which will push your board further
underwater.
3. At the same time slide one knee up onto the tail of the board
(your foot for big waves) applying pressure so you are more or less
level under the water.
4. As the wave passes over you start to lay flat on your board
and first stop pushing with your arms. This will aim the board up and
out behind the wave.
5. As you reach the surface you should be back in a paddling
position.
Start paddling as soon as you break the surface of the water. Not doing this, on bigger waves, could result in you and your board being sucked back into the breaking wave, not fun!
Remember duck diving takes a lot of practice to get it right. You should be able to duck dive in flat water once you get the hang of it -just like ducks do!!
The
Rules of Surfing
Become familiar with these rules of behavior
in the lineup before heading outside of the whitewater. These are well-
established rules throughout the world and bring order to what would
otherwise be a nightmarish and chaotic sport, with everyone running
each other over, lots of dinged-up boards, and lots of waves going by
unridden because everyone is getting thrashed in the soup.
1/ The person up and riding first that is closest to the breaking
part of the wave has the right of way. You may hear people declaring
their right to a wave by whistling, or shouting "Hey," "I
got it," "Coming down," or something like that.
2/ Do not drop in on someone who is already riding a wave. "Dropping
in" is taking off on a wave in front of someone who is already
riding it, i.e., someone who has the right of way.
3/ When paddling back out over or through a wave that someone
else is riding, move to go behind them. This allows them to continue
riding the wave without having to dodge you, and means that you will
be smashed by the whitewater. That's okay though, because when they
do the same for you, you'll be grateful.
4/ Above all, keep a good attitude. Apologize if you make a mistake.
If involve in or near a collision, stop what you're doing to make sure
that everyone is okay.
Sometimes difficult to say who has the right
of way
Surfing
Real Waves
Now that you've mastered the whitewater foamies
and are well-versed in the rules of surfing, you're ready to catch some
real waves.
The idea is similar to catching the whitewater. Start paddling early
as the wave approaches. You should be reaching full speed as the wave
comes underneath you and lifts you up. The time to stand is when the
board starts to plane on the surface of the water, as you are sliding
down the face of the wave.
Now you're really surfing!
Surf Tip
One of the problems surfers find when they
are starting out is how to keep up enough speed to ride the wave to
the end. The secret is to ride high. This means try and stay as far
up the face of the wave as you can, not too far though, or you will
feel the real power of the wave as it sucks you up and 'over the falls'
this hurts!! I know! Staying higher up the face gives you the momentum
to do those manouvres you've been dreaming about. Staying high is very
important when you are surfing smaller waves, which don't have the power
of bigger ones.
Practice, watch others, ask for advice, and
check back here for more updates to the page.
Other
Resources
Some other useful resources and opinions and tips
for the beginning surfer.
Learn
to surf books and DVDs
How to ride a bodyboard
Learn
to surf with Merrick Davis in Noosa,
Australia
Surf Fitness
(great tips on keeping surf fit)
Bali
learn to surf learn to surf in Bali
The above
content on this page is from
Santa
Barbara Surfing, an open content site.
Created by Tim Maddux, courtesy of UCSB, CoE, ME,
and CS.
and has been updated by Saltwater Dreaming.
Manouvres
The
cutback manouvre is used when you
need to get back to the power source of the wave.
surfer:Bun, Surin
Beach Thailand
The cutback
The Re-entry is when you turn up the face of the wave vertically and hit the lip of the breaking wave, as you turn back into the wave face.
hitting the lip
Surin Beach, Phuket, Thailand
66 076 270 549
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