'It's like the mafia. Once you're in - you're
in. There's no getting out.'
- Kelly Slater
Learn to Surf Instructions-
The Art of Surf Boarding
Surfing
Surfing like many action sports is
addictive, once you get the feeling of being in the ocean and
it is you and nature playing together...You are hooked!
Exitement, fear, relaxation, meditation,
being one with nature, pure fun are all part of the addiction
to surfing.
Surfing is a lifestyle of being one
with nature and the ocean. After 35 years paddling out, I still
am never bored and am still learning. It's difficult to explain
here how surfing makes you feel, a surf term that is used all
the time is 'stoke' when you are hooked, you dream, and in waking
hours, daydream about the stoke of surfing.
Really though the secret to learning
to surf is to never hesitate, once you are in the water, don't
think too much and go for it. I always tell my students this.
Hesitating can lead to serious errors and injuries. But we will
talk more about that later.
Where
to learn to surf
The right waves for learning to
surf
In general, a surf boarding beginner
wants to find a break with waves that look crumbly and slow. Try
to find small waves and a sandy beach; you'll be walking around
a lot. Don't paddle into a crowded break; you'll likely be a hazard.
Don't surf alone either; there will
be nobody to help if you're in trouble. Surf where there are people
present but not right on top of them where you'll be in the way.
Ask around for good beginner surf breaks
when you're shopping around for your surfing equipment. Most shop
proprietors will be happy to assist, especially if you're making
a purchase.
You could also look for surf schools
giving surfing lessons. Where they are teaching others
is probably a place that has good beginner waves. Or get your
first lesson with a surf school and they will teach you what are
good waves for learning and many other important tips that will
take you a long time to learn by trial and error.
To find the right break for you to learn on. Phuket has become
known as a place with gentle and easy waves, which are ideal for
learning to surf. Learn
to surf in Phuket
The Surfing
Phuket beaches pages on this web site have detailed information
on the surf conditions in Phuket. For other locations go to surfing
in Thailand.
Websites like Global surfers also have plenty of information for
surfing destinations all over the world. You could also check
out some of the beach cams in your area to see if the waves are
suitable for surfing beginners.
Here are some tips
on reading the surf and rip currents
Read about
how
to catch and ride your first wave
Pre-Surf
Preparation
It's always a bad idea to just paddle
out into the waves without first getting a good idea of what the
conditions are like.
In December, 1978, a young surfer did
just that at The Farm in Australia, paddling out into what he
thought was head-high surf when it was twice that size and getting
bigger, an hour of being thrashed around paddling aimlessly into
oncoming walls of whitewater the surfer was exhausted and lay
on the beach for another hour just getting his breath back.
Oh yeah....that young surfer was me.......I
quickly learnt my lesson though, and these days I always sit watching
the surf, channels and rips to work out where the best spot is
to surf and paddle out.
Watch the waves for at least twice as many minutes as the waves
are high on the face in feet. On a waist high day, that means
watching for about 5 or 6 minutes. On a double-overhead day, that
means watching for about 20 minutes.
Get a feel for where everyone is sitting
in the water, where the waves are breaking, and where they're
not breaking. Look for rip currents, rocks and hazards. Watch
a few larger set waves roll through. Think about where you can
paddle out into the surf, and where you can swim in if you get
into trouble.
Also, take some time while watching
the waves to stretch. Focus on your neck, shoulders, triceps,
back, and legs. Swing your arms and get your pulse going. Get
into a calm state of mind.
Put some sunscreen on your face and
some wax on your board and get out there!
Here are some tips on Stretching
exercises before you go surfing
Paddling
and Laying on Your Surfboard
Paddling a surfboard is one of the
most essential skills for surfing. It is what you will be doing
most of the time in the water. It is what gives you your fitness
and what makes you tired. Paddling correctly will help you catch
waves and progress in surfing better, quicker.
Read more about how
to paddle on a surfboard
Goofy
or Natural Foot?
Before you get on your surfboard, or
put on your surf leash you need to know whether you are Goofy
or Natural foot. This means which foot you put at the front of
your surfboard.
Simply put
Goofy footed- right foot at the front
Natural footed- left foot at the front
Here are some tests:
The linoleum slide test -- wear
socks and run and slide across the kitchen floor. Which foot is
first? Plant it front on your board.
The push test -- have someone push you (gently) from behind.
Which foot goes forward. That is your front foot.
The stair test -- which foot leads on stairs, down? Front
foot.
Bike test -- When you ride a bike and coast, which foot
leads on fast downhills? Front foot on board.
The best way to figure this out is to try riding a skateboard;
your back leg while skateboarding is the same as while surfing.
Really the tests above are for people
who really can't work out which foot to put forward. Most people
when practicing to stand up on a surfboard, just do it. I will
say once again, if you think too much you will fall, just do it!
Your
First Surf Boarding Waves
By now you have found a good place
to learn to surf and have gotten used to paddling around on the
board without falling off. The next step is to catch and ride
your first surfing waves.
Read about
how
to ride your first wave
Read About
how
to fall off your surfboard
The
Rules of Surfing
Become familiar with these rules
of surfing behavior in the lineup before heading outside of
the whitewater.
These are well- established rules
throughout the world and bring order to what would otherwise
be a nightmarish and chaotic sport, with everyone running each
other over, lots of dinged-up boards, and lots of waves going
by unridden because everyone is getting thrashed in the soup.
Read more about the
rules
of surfing and surf etiquette
-
-
-
Surfing
Real Waves
Now that you've mastered the whitewater
foamies and are well-versed in the rules of surfing, you're
ready to catch some real waves.
The idea is similar to catching the whitewater. Start paddling
early as the wave approaches. You should be reaching full speed
as the wave comes underneath you and lifts you up. The time
to stand is when the board starts to plane on the surface of
the water, as you are sliding down the face of the wave.
There is a moment where there is
the feeling of weightlessness as the board starts to drop down
the face, this is the time to stand up.
Standing to early, you probably will
fade off the back of the wave, standing to late you run the
risk of pearling/nose diving or if you do get up the momentum
you had going down the face has gone and the wave will probably
outrun you.
Now you're really surfing!
Now you're ready to do
some turns
and maneuvers
Practice, watch others, ask
for advice, and check back here for more updates to the page.
How to Duck Dive
-
-
correctly is an essential techniquie
for surfing. Duck diving allows you to get through/under
the waves with the least amount of energy and also gets
you out the back of the waves quickly.
Learning to duck dive takes a lot
of practice it is not as easy as it looks. If you don't duck
dive correctly the wave will push you back and you will probably
lose your board. The worst scenario, on bigger waves, is that
the wave will pick you up and suck you over the falls inside
the wave! This is not a pleasant experience! But we've all
been there!
Read more about the steps
on how
to do a duck dive and a turtle roll
Your First Surfboard
When you learn to surf there are
many different types of surfboards to choose from, and for a
beginner the features and characteristics can seem confusing.
The best surfboard for a beginner
is a funboard or an egg, which is a fairly wide and thick board
from 7' to 8' in length, typically having a blunt or rounded
nose. A good rule of thumb is to get something 14" longer
than you are tall, and at least 20" wide.
read more
about which
surfboard is suited for learning to surf
Your First Wetsuit
Far and away the single most important thing
to look for when purchasing a new wetsuit is how it fits.
Shop around as much as you can. Make sure the
suit has a comfortable feel. All suits will be tight by design
but it shouldn't be totally restrictive of motion.
Read more about choosing
a wetsuit or a lycra rash vest
Other
Accessories
Surfboard Leashes
The leash is a cord of polyurethane that
straps around the ankle of a surfer and is attached to the
surfboard. Attach it to your back leg. Never tug on the leash
when your board is being held under as the board can come
snapping back at you. Practice removing it quickly in case
it gets caught on a rock or pier piling.
Most leashes have a quick release tab,
a large piece of webbibing that is easy to grab onto and pull.
Treat your surfboard as if it was not attached, doing conservative
exits and hanging onto it at all times.
Read more about
surf
leashes-legropes-the parts and how to choose a surfboard leash
Surf Wax / Traction Pads / Deck Grips
Something to keep your feet on the board
once you learn to stand up.
Surfboard Wax
Wax goes on the deck
(top) of the board. Usually comes in two coats, a base coat
which goes directly onto the deck in a thin layer and is quite
hard, and then a sticky coat over that which beads up to provide
traction.
Traction
Pads / Deck Grips
These are expensive traction pads
that provide some extra grip as well as padding for the deck
of the board. They can limit the movement of the feet and
can result in discomfort to the chest and stomach while paddling.
Tail patches are grip specially
designed for the rear of the board, and provide good traction
for the rear foot needed in most turns on a shortboard.
Read more about how
to use and apply surfboard wax and traction pads
Surfboard Fins
Read about Surfboard
Fin Selection Tips from FCS
Other
Resources
Some other useful resources, opinions
and tips for the beginning surfer on how to surf board.
 Forum
- questions and answers on learning to surf
Surfing
turns and maneuvers
Learn to surf books and DVDs
How to ride a bodyboard
Learn
to surf with Merrick Davis in Noosa,
Australia
Surf
Fitness (great tips on keeping surf fit)
learn to surf
surfing lessons in Phuket
RSS Feed
Learn
to surf Forum
Some of the above content on this page is from
Santa
Barbara Surfing, an open content site.
Created by Tim Maddux, courtesy of UCSB, CoE, ME, and CS.
and has been updated and in many parts re-written by Saltwater
Dreaming.
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